Drum Enclosure: Clear plastic Drum enclosure keeps rounds in the drum from falling out during close combat. This is my third drum enclosure made for a Tommy-based gun. This enclosure has no moving parts. Reloads are facilitated by two holes on either side of the drum. Pulling the trigger halfway then releasing it rotates the drum by 1 dart.
New on/off switch: Like all Tommy-* guns, the stock on/off switch is also the mecanical safety. By building in a separate on/off rocker switch, i am able to disengage the mechanical safety without activating the gunmotors. This allows me to rotate the drum using the trigger, facilitating the reload process.
Construction: 1/2" PVC plastic-glued to the bottom of the T12, reenforced with gorilla tape. Pvc is insulated. Blade, forearm harness and spikes are layers of camping foam. Forearm straps are leather belts from goodwill.
A good portion of the weight of the weapon is borne by the forearm through the use of the forearm harness. The harness is constructed from two foam wings held together by 2 adjustable belts.
This forearm enclosure protects the forearm from the enemy shots and tags. Being covered in spikes means that the forearm harness is also valid striking surface under most LARP rulesystems.
Status: My primary weapon.
0) Gun Choice: As stated above, the gun I used was chosen for its flat bottom and because it is a flywheel gun. I am quite fond of flywheel guns.
1) Alterations to Gun's Internals[Not Pictured]: I soldered in a custom on/off rocker switch on the rear so I could turn the gun onoff with my thumb. I added some comfy foam padding to the handle of the gun.
To keep the rounds from falling out of the drum, I built a drum enclosure out of the clear plastic from the outer case of a spool of blank CDs.
2) PVC Rod: I glued the gun to a PVC rod using a plastic solovent glue [shown at right], such that the plastic of the gun and PVC melted and fused together. Shown below, is the gun and PVC rod as they were just before I glued them.
After the glue dried for 36 hours, I re-enforced it with tightly wrapped gorilla tape.
The main shaft is covered with 3/8" grey piping foam.
3) The Foreblade: The foreblade is 6 layers of blue foam. First cut with regular scissors, then sculptedwith small, extremely sharp scissors. Shown Below, the foreblade has a plug that fits into the open end of the grey piping foam.
There are a total of 6 layers of foam used in the front blade. That's 4 for the main blade, plus one layer of reenforcement foam on either side. To the left of the image shown below you can see that I added foam blades onto the top and bottoms of the grey piping insulation. These blades are made from 2x layers of foam, cut into a V shape.
4) The Rear: In my origional designs, the elbow blade was much larger. It was going to be a full scythe blade, and I had planned to make it out of yellow couch foam. I realized it was too big after making a cardboard prototype, and decided to greatly scale it down.
For the arm harness, the belts were purchased for $2 each at Goodwill. They go through little notches which I cut in the PVC.
5) Taping: Notice for a moment that there is very little duct tape shown in these pictures, and yet the foam pieces stay in place. This is because all foam was glued first with foam epoxy. Thus, the duct tape bears a lot less stress, which makes the whole piece a lot more durable.
As far as taping goes, I taped the grey spikes and grey blades first, then did the green parts last. I used a razor knife and very sharp scissors to cut the green tape into exactly the shape needed, especially when I was taping around the spikes.